When we purchased our RV we already knew that we wanted to install enough power equipment that we could go “boondocking”. The goal was to be able to have all the amenities available as when in a campground with a full 50 amp grid connection.

And so, I jumped head first down the off-grid/solar rabbit hole with absolutely no concept for how deep the hole went.

Briefly – an off-grid power system is made up of the following components:

• Factory Installed “Solar Prep”
• Batteries – These store Direct Current (DC) power used by the rest of the system.
• Inverters – These devices take DC power out of the batteries and convert it to Alternating Current (AC) power to run household appliances – air conditioners, microwave, TV, etc.
• Solar panels – (optional) These devices generate DC power from sunlight to quietly replenish depleted batteries.
• Solar Charge Controller – These devices receive power from the solar panels and control how much of that power to send to the system.
• Generator – (optional, but recommended) These devices generate AC power from gasoline or diesel which can be used (through the inverter/charger) to replenish depleted batteries.
• The Glue – The rest of the components can be lumped together under “glue” that makes the system work. This includes wiring, battery cables, bus bars, shunts, disconnect switches, etc.
• Lessons Learned – Things we have learned after living with this system for a few months
• Full Installation Manual – How to purchase an installation manual for this system

Factory Installed “Solar Prep”

We were excited that our RV came with what Forest River calls the “Juice Pack”. Unfortunately, as with the “Cellular Hotspot Prep” and the “Polar Shield” pack, the “Juice Pack” is mostly a marketing gimmick.

The “Juice Pack” consists of a single 50 watt panel on the roof of the RV. A 50 watt panel provides about 4 amps of 12v DC on a day with full sun. It is effectively a trickle charger for the house batteries. Other RV manufacturers may provide more or better components in their “solar prep” kits, but expect to replace much or all of the equipment. We removed every component of the Juice Pack while installing our proper solar setup.

Batteries

We knew that we wanted to upgrade to Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries to replace the factory installed lead-acid batteries.

Lead-acid batteries can only be discharged to 50% before damaging them. We had two installed for ~200 amp hours capacity, but only able to discharge to half that. This means that with two 100amp hour lead acid batteries, you only have 100 amp hours of usable capacity.

We replaced the lead-acid batteries with three 206 amp hour SOK LiFePO4 batteries. Lithium batteries can be discharged completely without damaging the battery. This results in a total usable capacity of ~620 amp hours.

Lithium batteries are also much lighter per amp hour than their lead acid counterparts. This weight savings will be used by other components of the off-grid solar power system.

Inverters

For inverters we chose to use two Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 inverters. These inverters are 12 volt on the DC side, can provide 3000 volt-amps of 120 volts on the AC side, and can pass through up to 50 amps of 120v shore power. As our RV is designed around 50 amp service with a split breaker box, we wanted to put one inverter on each leg of the 50 amp service to the breaker box.

3000 volt-amps works out to about 25 amps of usable inverter power. This means that we do not have all the electrical capabilities that we have when hooked up to a 50 amp shore power connection. This means that we have to be mindful of how much demand we are placing on the inverters when not connected to shore power. For example – we can not run the air conditioner and the microwave at the same time without putting the inverter serving that side of the breaker box into overload mode.

Solar Panels

We use solar power to recharge the batteries when off-grid. This power is generated by our solar panels. These were installed on the roof using strut channel and tilt brackets. I can not take credit for this installation method. I got the idea from the Travel New Trails youtube channel. I modified his method slightly and am really happy with the result.

We installed six 200 watt panels from Rich Solar. The panels are arranged in two arrays of 600 watts each. These panels are 12 volt panels with a working voltage around 20 volts @ 10 amps. We wired the panels in series for ~60 volts @ 10 amps. The full specifications for these panels are as follows:

Solar Charge Controllers

The factory installed charge controller did not support LiFePO4 batteries. This meant that we needed to replace it with better equipment. Here we opted for two Victron Smart Solar MPPT charge controllers in 100/50. We did this so that we could run two strings of 200 watt panels with 600 watts on each charge controller. This gives us a total of 1200 watts of solar.

The 100 in the product specification indicates that this charge controller can accept 100 volts input current MAXIMUM. Victron is very clear that input voltage higher than the stated rating will damage the unit, and that they will not warranty the unit for failure due to over-voltage. Our solar arrays are only capable of providing ~60 volts input, so we should never exceed this input rating. The 50 in the product specification indicates that this charge controller can provide 50 amps of 12 volt DC output at maximum.

Our two strings of solar panels can each provide 50 amps of 12v DC to recharge the batteries, or 100 amps total. Solar panels rarely operate at 100% efficiency, but we have seen as much as 90 amps in real world testing.

Generator

We carry a 3000 watt generator/inverter on our RV travels. The reason for this is that there are many factors that degrade the performance of our solar array. RV orientation, shade from trees or even clouds on an otherwise sunny day can all greatly decrease solar power output. Having the generator along ensures that we can always have 3000 watts of power available to recharge our batteries.

The downsides to a generator are that they take up valuable cargo space and weight. They also require fuel to operate. Some RV destinations do not allow visitors to operate a generator. Generators are much louder than solar power, and they produce toxic fumes. Generators can also provide power at night and during a rainstorm though, so they are worth consideration.

The Glue

The rest of the system installation was largely wiring all of the components together.

The “Juice Pack” wasn’t a total loss. We were able to use the factory installed wiring to pull the new wiring through the ceiling and down the wall inside the RV. The factory installed wiring was only 12 AWG, which would not have been heavy enough to carry 500 watts of solar. We replaced it with two runs of 10AWG solar wire from BougeRV through the existing hole in the roof.

From there we ran the wires down the wall in the factory location. We removed the paneling on the wall to gain access.

After the wiring was run down the wall we ran it through the basement and into the frame box where the factory wiring had been. The wiring terminates in the front bay of the RV where the batteries were installed at the factory.

With all the wiring ran from the roof it was time to start wiring the system together. We made all of the battery cables, as well as all the wiring between the components. The exception to this was the communication cables between components. Victron recommends using pre-made cables for these connections.

Tying it all together is a Victron Lynx Power In, a Victron Lynx smart shunt and two Victron Lynx Distributors. The Lynx system is basically a 1000 amp capable battery bus bar. The batteries are connected to the Power In. From there the power flows through a 500 amp main fuse in the smart shunt, and then into the Lynx Distributors. Each connection in the Distributor is fused appropriately for the device connected.

Lessons Learned

When we are at a campground with full 50 amp shore power the inverters simply pass that shore power through to the breaker box in the RV. In this case the inverters and solar panels do not have much to do because we are pulling the power that we need from the shore connection when we need it.

When we are at a campground with a 30 amp shore power connection the situation changes. Because the inverter/chargers are programmed in a split-phase pair only the primary inverter passes through shore power. This means that only half of the RV’s breaker box is being serviced by shore power. The other half – serviced by the other inverter – is being powered by the batteries. This is because the secondary inverter does not pass through the shore connection.

While we are able to run everything in our RV without a shore connection, we learned quickly that there are limitations. For example, 1300 watts going to the air conditioner with 1500 watts going to the microwave/convection oven is enough to make the inverter servicing that line unhappy. The inverter will power both devices for a time, but will eventually go into overload and reset. Because the two inverters are in a split-phase pair, this causes both inverters to shut down. It’s only a minor inconvenience, but something that must be remembered.

Full Installation Manual

We are in the process of writing an installation manual for the system outlined above. The manual presents all of the information you would need to install this system yourself complete with pictures, wiring diagrams, etc. If you would like to be emailed when this manual becomes available please enter your name and email address into the form below.

The post The Off-Grid Fifth Wheel appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

Hotspot “Prep”

The first thing we underestimated about the Lippert OneControl Hotspot was exactly what made the RV “prepped”. The pre-wiring consists of the following items:

1. A plate in the ceiling of the mid-bunk loft. This plate sports two SMA connections and one 12V barrel plug.
2. An antenna mount on the roof of the RV. NOT an antenna, but a place to mount one.
3. Two short cables with SMA ends between these two components

That’s it.

The rest of the components necessary to have a working hotspot must be purchased from Lippert.

The Lippert Hotspot Kit

We were excited at the prospect of a turn-key solution for internet. Since the internet travels with us, we should never be bothered by congested or weak campground interent service. As long as we can get a good signal (and the tower isn’t overloaded), we should have internet wherever we go.

Lippert ships these units with a 4G SIM card on AT&T’s network pre-installed. Included with the router is a “claim code” which is to used at a Lippert website to claim the router that you have purchased. During this process you must also choose a data plan.

And this is where things go sideways.

Claim Codes

The first issue we had with this device was in claiming it. When we received the unit we went to the Lippert website to claim our device. We logged in, accepted the long (and intrusive) terms of service, and entered our claim code. The website responded that our claim code had already been claimed and to have the owner “un-claim” the device.

As this was a new device, we were a bit confused.

A phone call to Lippert customer support led to a ticket being created for “the back office” personnel to look into our issue. This was on a Tuesday. Friday afternoon we received an email stating that the problem had been resolved, and requested us to try the registration process again.

On returning to the Lippert website we found that the claim code had been tied to our account, and that we had a device registered. It was now time to choose a data plan.

Data Plan Options

By “time to choose a data plan”, we mean that you must choose a data plan to proceed.

While there is a button labeled “No Plan”, the website will not allow you to proceed by using it. Clicking the “No Plan” button only results in a modal window with a submit button that doesn’t do anything. It did not matter which browser we used, only the cancel button worked.

So after a week of having a non-functional door-stop because of the claim code issue, now we have a non-functional door stop because I don’t want to choose one of Lippert’s service offerings today.

I’m only trying to get access to the router. The router will not accept a local login until it has been claimed and service set up.

There must be a better way…

Enter the Internet

It turns out that the Lippert OneControl Hotspot is actually a rebranded ZBT WiFlyer WE826.

When not purchased from in Lippert branding this device runs something called “OpenWRT” — an open source router project from way back. This is good news! It means that we should be able to flash OpenWRT onto the device.

Why would we do such a thing?

Because we paid for the hardware, and want to use it how we see fit.

Lippert’s data plan choices are poor at best. Why would we pay $65/month for 10GB of data with AT&T from Lippert when we can buy 50GB of data from T-Mobile for $50, or 100GB of data from AT&T for $55?

Flashing the Router

So we head over to OpenWRT’s forums where we find that the folks at the ROOter project have cooked up a firmware image for the WE826. The ROOter project is a fork of OpenWRT which is especially aimed at routers with cellular modems installed, or on a USB interface. The ROOter project provides an interface to enter AT commands to the modem, which proved invaluable during the nightmare before us.

The WE826 has a recovery feature in case of a bad firmware installation. Using this interface to overwrite the Lippert installed firmware will absolutely void your warranty with Lippert. Do this _ONLY_ if you are capable of running this device yourself.

To enter emergency flash mode simply hold down the reset button while plugging in the power to the router. The router will turn on and start the emergency recovery console. Plug a network cable into one of the LAN ports on the router and connect to http://192.168.1.1/

_{Note – the router will not start a DHCP service in emergency recovery. You must manually set the IP address of your device to something in 192.168.1.0/24. 192.168.1.20 should work fine.}

We were able to get the router flashed using the interface to upload the firmware image downloaded from the ROOter site.

Confident that the “better way” was within reach, we went to AT&T for a prepaid data-only sim — 100GB for $50/month. For reasons known only to AT&T, these SIMs can not be purchased online.

Your IMEI and You

To understand what happened next, a person needs to be familiar with the IMEI.

Wireless modems, cell phones, etc, all have what is known as an IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) number. It’s basically a serial number for the radio. The Lippert OneControl Hotspot has an IMEI as well – the IMEI of the wireless modem inside the device.

We were never able to get the AT&T data-only sim to work in the router. We do not know why because AT&T won’t tell us. What AT&T did tell us is that prepaid data-only SIMs are non-refundable.

What we suspect happened is this:

1. We installed the SIM into the Lippert device with the IMEI from the “Lippert” radio already registered on AT&T’s network.
2. AT&T’s network monitoring software detected that the modem was being used with an unapproved SIM and promptly blacklisted the SIM and the IMEI.

We suspect this because …

Replacing the Modem

The modem inside the WE826 is a Quectel EC25 on a replaceable mini PCI-e card.

Deciding that the issue must be due to the IMEI on the device belonging to the Lippert/OneControl device, we decided to purchase a different modem. The Sierra Wireless MC7400 seemed like a good fit.

Changing the modem was a challenge. Someone – Lippert or ZBT – applied epoxy all over the antenna connections on the card. We were able to remove the epoxy by poking at it gently with a hot metal pick. We (somehow) managed to remove the epoxy without damaging the antenna leads.

DHT Electronics 2PCS 20CM SMA Female to U.FL IPX IPEX WiFi Cable for U.FL Mini PCI Card These pigtails are suitable for replacing the 4G radio pigtails that come in the WE826.

Unfortunately, after installing the replacement modem and hooking everything back up, the hotspot _still_ doesn’t connect to get an IP address on the AT&T network.

Disgusted, but Determined

At this point I am completely disgusted with the whole project.

AT&T swore to us that the SIM was activated and that they could find no reason why it wouldn’t be working. Our ticket with the “engineering department” (#000000304157209) was equally pointless.

It’s seeming more and more likely that we had just spent $400 to fill the antenna shaped hole on the roof, and that we would be replacing the Hotspot.

T-Mobile To The Rescue!

I used the very last bit of motivation for this project to go to a T-Mobile store and purchase one of their 2GB data-only SIMs. At least if it doesn’t work the lesson will be less expensive.

Can you guess what happened?

It worked!

This is why we believe our SIM/IMEI numbers were blacklisted by AT&T. The same hardware and software connects to T-Mobile’s network without any issues. The ONLY reasons that the AT&T SIM wouldn’t work are within AT&T’s network.

In the end I paid $75 to learn that AT&T doesn’t seem to care too much about supporting prepaid customers.

Our Recommendation

“RV Internet” options are limited and expensive. What is important to understand is that all “RV internet” offerings are cellular internet from AT&T, T-Moble, Sprint or Verizon being resold to you at a profit.

If your RV is prepped for the Lippert OneControl Hotspot you can purchase the kit and use it with one of Lippert’s data plan offerings. The hardware is not great and the service is expensive, but it will probably suffice for weekenders who don’t stream their entertainment.

If your RV is prepped for the Lippert OneControl Hotspot and you do not want to be bound by Lippert’s service offerings you can still buy the kit, but accept that you are spending $400 on the antenna. Whether you replace the modem or the entire unit, you will be upgrading the router, one way or another.

Update

After living with this router for a a few months, it is really pretty terrible.

It reboots at least every few days, and sometimes several times on the same day, and always at the least opportune times. We will be replacing it.

Maybe we will let the Raspberry Pi act as the router…

Mini PCI-E to USB Adapter with SIM Card Slot for WWAN LTE Module with SIM 6 Pin 8 Pin Card Connector Turn a mini PCI-e modem into a USB modem

The post Taming the Lippert OneControl Hotspot appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

Our RV is equipped with 12 volt lights throughout. The factory installed lights have a push activated button to turn the light on and off, but they are in no way dim-able. This presents a problem as the lights are much too bright for anyone in our family to sleep under.

We found 12 volt dim-able LED lights on Amazon that we thought would be more suited to the task at hand.

Replacing The Lights

Replacing the lights was as simple as:

1. Remove the plastic cover from the OEM light. Do this by rotating the plastic cover counter clockwise. The cover may be difficult to remove. In fact, the cover may be so difficult to remove that you become convinced that it is glued in place. It isn’t. It’s just stuck.
2. Gently pull the wires until the wire nuts come out of the hole.
3. Carefully remove the “hot” wire (usually red) supplying power to the OEM light.
4. Place the “hot” wire (red) from the replacement light into the wire nut and close the clamp.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 for the ground wire
6. Gently push the wires back up into the hole
7. Install the light using the screws provided
8. Install the plastic screw covers

The light is turned on by pressing the shiny “button” in the center of the light. The first touch turns on the blue night light. This light is bright enough to read under, but people with blue light sensitivity may have trouble sleeping with this light on. Another push of the center button turns the soft-white light on. The white light’s brightness can be raised or lowered by pressing and holding the button in the center of the light.

We like these lights, but they could be improved in two ways.

First, the blue light could be red. People with blue light sensitivity may find it difficult to sleep under this light’s blue “night light” function. Second, the light should have an additional off between the blue and white lights.

When someone is reading under the blue light and finished their reading for the night they have to cycle the light through the white function to turn it off. This blast of white light can be disturbing to anyone sleeping (or anyone else nearby). It would be better if the light went blue, off, white, off.

While these lights are not perfect they are a more versatile light than the lights that they replaced. If you need a dim-able replacement light for your RV consider these lights. They work great as reading lights, or as night lights. We even installed one in our kitchen to act as an overnight light.

Products In This Post

	RV LED Interior Light 12V 24V, 2 Pack Warm White/Blue Dimmable Lamp with Integrated Touch Switch, Surface Mount Ceiling Dome Lighting Fixture for Motorhome Trailer Camper Boat
	WAGO 221 LEVER-NUTS 40pc Compact Wire Splicing Connector Assortment. Contains (18x) 221-412, (14x) 221-413, (8x) 221-415

The post Reading Light Upgrade appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

RV Home Office

We decided to go with the 36BHQ floorplan because of the large windows in the rear of the rig. We planned to build our work area into this part of the RV from the start. We wanted to have a working space that looked outside. We imagined backing into a lakeside spot and parking with the rear of the rig hanging out over the water’s edge.

Inspired by how well the Home School Desk worked out, Sam began to design a combination folding desk and bookshelf for the rear of the RV.

The Plan

We couldn’t decide if we wanted to keep the factory installed table/shelf units next to the couch, so we retained them for now.

The cabinetry in our Sabre 36BHQ is pleasant enough to look at, and we wanted the desk to match the rest of the RV. The cabinetry in the RV is not wood, but MDF covered in a plastic veneer. We do not know where Forest River sources their materials from, but “Cottage” finish Dakota products from Menard’s are a perfect match.

We built the skeleton for the desk unit using standard 2×4 pine lumber. The boards were cut to length, then ripped to the correct dimensions using the table saw. Using this lumber the shelf is built of three pieces like the one below.

To subdue the yellow pine “bones”, we applied a yakisugi finish to the wood before assembly.

Assembling The Cabinet

After the skeleton components were assembled the facing boards and cabinet skins were installed. The three shelf sections are screwed to each other. Additionally, each side of the shelf unit has a 1/4″ piece of “Cottage” finish handi-panel acting as a side skin. This skin is stapled to the skeleton for added rigidity.

This created the basic structural shape of the shelf in its finished dimensions, less the fold down work areas.

Relocating Receptacles

As can be seen in the picture, the top shelf is interfering with access to the 120V outlet on either side of the desk.

We had planned to relocate the electrical outlets up the rear wall slightly so that they would be above the top shelf’s surface. We considered placing the outlets below the shelf to hide them, but were concerned that the “drywall” repair would be unsightly. We also thought that placing the outlets above the shelf would make them more convenient for plugging things into those outlets.

To move the receptacles up the wall we first measured how far the outlet needed to move. Then we used a reciprocating undercut saw (NOT a “saws all”) to remove that much material from the top of the existing hole in the wall. We then used this piece of wall material that we removed to fill the (now too-big) bottom of the hole.

We did this with a small piece of thin pine lumber as support. A wooden paint stirring stick would also suffice. We then CA glued the bit of wall we removed to the center of the pine board, and then CA glued the pine board to the back of either side of the opening. After the glue dried we filled the gaps with drywall compound, and then sanded the area smooth the way one would in a traditional house.

Desktops And Edge Banding

After everything else for the desk was ready we went to work on the tops. Since the top shelf of the desk is wider than the opening between the two cabinets, the desktops have a curved transition to the top.

We used 3/4″ handi-panel for the desktops. As raw MDF is unattractive to look at, we purchased some PVC edge banding. Edge banding makes an MDF DIY furniture project look attractive and “finished’.

Folding Shelf Brackets

The key feature of this desk configuration is that the desks store away when they are not in use. This is facilitated by the folding shelf brackets. These are the same brackets we used in the kid’s desk project. The brackets are rated for 440 pounds – plenty to hold a laptop and accessories, paperwork, or school work.

The Finished Product

We really like the bookshelf and folding desk. It allows us to have a dedicated work area with a view, and it has lots of storage.

Either side of the desk can be used while the other is folded, and both sides fold down on move days. We attach a cargo net over both desks to keep things inside the bottom shelf. The chairs then strap to the desk to hold the tops in the down position, which should keep everything safely inside.

Products in this post

CUZURLUV 14” Folding Shelf Brackets Max. Load 440 lb, Heavy Duty Stainless Steel DIY Wall Mounted Shelf Bracket Space Saving for Table Work Bench, Pack of 2

The post RV Home Office – Working on the Road appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

Living in an RV is sometimes like living in an efficiency apartment. There is not much space to waste, and features in the space often serve multiple functions. Our home-on-the-road needs a space for our children to do their school work.

We built a small folding desk in the kid’s room by using some folding shelf brackets and a wooden map that we had acquired while antiquing. We secured the brackets to wall studs with screws, and then screwed the wooden map to the brackets. When the desk is not in use it folds down neatly out of the way.

There are many different ways to home school on the road. Whether “unschooling”, “road schooling”, or even enrolling your child in a virtual K-12 school, it is important to give your children a quality education.

It is also important to know the laws regarding home schooling in your home “domicile” state. Different states have different requirements for curriculum as well as for record keeping. The Home School Legal Defense Association has many great resources to help guide you and answer any questions.

Offline Education Resources

If you are going to RV full time and home school your children, consider packing some offline study materials. Internet access is not always readily available when traveling which can make online school difficult. Even with multiple cellular internet providers, we find ourselves without fast internet fairly often. Old-school books along with pencil and paper fill these gaps.

Products in this post

CUZURLUV 14” Folding Shelf Brackets Max. Load 440 lb, Heavy Duty Stainless Steel DIY Wall Mounted Shelf Bracket Space Saving for Table Work Bench, Pack of 2

The post Home Schooling in an RV appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

UPDATE: After this post was published we established a relationship with RVAirFlow to offer you a discount! Use code METAPHYSICAL.FAMILY at checkout to receive 15% off your order.

Anyone who has lived in an RV has spent time and money trying to improve the cooling efficiency of their air conditioners. Most of these efficiency upgrades come in the form of air flow modifications.

If asked to give an opinion of the installation of the air conditioning units in our RV, I would have to say that it was not completed as well as it could have been. I would not go so far as to call it poor work, but it certainly wasn’t great work.

The roof of our RV is constructed in layers. The ducting for the air conditioning vents runs within these layers of the roof. They start (or end, depending on perspective) within the large box at the rear of the RV, run down both sides of the rig, and all the way to the front air conditioning unit in the master bedroom in theand first set of registers front.

The 36BHQ features two 15,000BTU Coleman Mach 15 air conditioning units

Seal the Ducting

Where these ducts terminate into the air conditioning charge chambers is a well known trouble spot in the RV world. RVs sometimes end up assembled with poorly taped up joints at the ducting. This can allow conditioned air to be blown into the ceiling space instead of the ducting where it belongs.

Forest River actually did make an attempt to tape up the joints at the factory. They had used aluminium tape to seal the gaps between the air chamber and the roofing structure of the RV pretty well. Unfortunately, the ducting had been taped up in a way that greatly restricted the air conditioning. The tape covered the duct openings, and the ducts themselves were pinched nearly closed.

Fixing the tape situation helped the system breath much better than before. We noticed a perceptible difference in the air coming out of the registers near the running unit. We were also able to detect airflow at the opposite end of the vents from the running unit. There had been no detectable airflow at the opposite end of the ducting prior to the re-taping of the vents.

Dumping the Dump Plates

The Coleman Mach 15 air conditioners that service our unit came installed with what the RV world calls “dump valves”. The intention is that this valve can be opened to dump conditioned air directly into the compartment. Some air still enters the duct work, but most of the air is dumped directly below the unit.

Many RVers choose to change how this works in order to get more air into the duct work. The DIY approach involves sealing the cold side of the air conditioner with foam board insulation. This approach is certainly an improvement over the factory configuration, but there is a still better way.

Enter RVAirFlow

For those that would like a little more fit and finish for their RV Air Conditioning system there is RV AirFlow.

The RV AirFlow offering does what the DIY approach above intends to do. The difference is that the RV AirFlow was designed by a person with an understanding of fluid dynamics and 30 years experience in this area. In fact, the RV AirFlow works so well that Grand Design now includes them in their RVs from the factory.

Installation

Installation of the RVAirFlow unit is fairly straightforward. Instructions are included with some RVAirFlow units, but not all. We ordered two as our RV has two AC units. The first RVAirFlow we opened to install did not include instructions. We got it installed, but it would have gone faster with the instructions we found the following day when we opened the second box.

Installation steps for the 2022 Forest River Sabre 36BHQ are as follows:

1. Remove the four screws holding the outer cover.
2. Remove the inner plastic cover.
3. Place both covers somewhere out of the way.
4. Remove the foam partition board installed at the factory.
5. Use aluminum tape to seal any gaps between the air box and the ducting properly
6. Remove the four long bolts holding the AC unit to the roof. Be sure to support the large metal plate that the bolts pass through.
7. Place the provided foam weather stripping around the protrusion on the plastic pieces that go into the vents.
8. Place the plastic pieces into the vents.
9. Now gently maneuver the RVAirFlow unit into position in the air box. A helper is beneficial at this step to either push the large foam piece into place, or hold the plastic duct spreaders out of the way.
10. Reinstall the metal plate and the four long bolts holding the AC unit to the roof. There is a large gasket between the AC unit and the roof. Do not over-tighten.
11. Reinstall plastic pieces and filters.
12. Enjoy your greatly improved air conditioning performance!

Is RVAirFlow worth it?

Maximizing the efficiency of your RV’s air conditioning system is critical to a comfortable RV experience in warmer weather. While some manufacturers don’t apply as much attention to detail in this area as they should, RVAirFlow being installed on some makes and models of RV at the factory may indicate a positive change.

There is no question that the RVAirFlow improved the efficiency of our RV’s AC units. Before RVAirFlow the AC ran nearly constantly on a warm (not even hot!) day. And they were LOUD. The bedroom unit made it hard to sleep, and the living room unit would drown out the TV. After RVAirFlow the AC is off more than it is on, and they are much quieter when they are on — still far from silent, but better than before.

We are very pleased with our purchase of the RVAirFlow system for our Sabre 36BHQ’s two AC units. We can certainly see why these would be installed at the factory going forward.

If you are looking for a way to get more cooling out of your RV’s air conditioner, consider an RVAirFlow (after taping up the ducting!). Don’t forget to use discount code METAPHYSICAL.FAMILY at checkout to receive 15% off!

The post RV Air Conditioning Upgrade: RVAirFlow appeared first on Metaphysical Family.

Our 2022 Forest River Sabre 36BHQ came from the factory with illuminated light switches. This is actually a really great feature. The illuminated switches are quickly and easily located in the dark of night.

Blue Light Sensitivity

The problem is that Forest River installed blue switches. We do not know the reason Forest River chose blue light switches (perhaps because ours is the cobalt edition?), but we do know that blue light makes it hard for some persons to sleep.

The lady of the house inquired about changing the color of the lights in the switches. This isn’t possible because the LED inside the switch is white shining through whatever color plastic the switch is made from. A blue switch lights up blue, a red switch lights up red. But I was sure that we could change the color of the plastic by replacing RV light switches.

All of the lights in our RV are 12V DC. All of the light switches in our RV are automotive style normally open rocker switches, with an LED inside. When wired with 12V and ground (two wires) the LED inside the switch will illuminate when the switch is turned on. When wired with a 12V to the extra pin on the switch (three wires), the LED inside the switch will be illuminated all the time. This is what gives us the light up switch that’s easy to locate in the dark.

Replacing RV Light Switches

Replacing the switches is a snap (heh).

1. Gently remove the snap on cover plate from the switch
2. Remove the screws holding the switch plate to the wall
3. Depress the retaining tabs on the top and bottom of the switch, pushing the switch out of the mounting plate.
4. Slide the mounting plate down the wires and out of the way.
5. Locate the polarity markings on both switches
6. Optional: Take a picture of the wires for reference before proceeding
7. Carefully move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Move only one wire at a time to prevent mistakes.
8. Make sure the switch illuminates, and functions. If it doesn’t, go to your fuse box and replace the fuse that you’ve blown.
9. Slide the mounting plate back down the wires and install the new switch into the mounting plate.
10. Re-attach the mounting plate to the wall using the screws you removed earlier
11. Snap face plate back on switch mounting plate
12. Enjoy your new red light switch

Products in this post

RV Designer S247, Rocker Switch, 10 Amp, Illuminated On / Off, SPST, Black w/ Red, DC Electrical

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